DAKS
A British luxury fashion house known for tailored clothing, classic British styling, its house check, and a long association with royal warrants.
Last updated August 21, 2026
Overview
DAKS is a British luxury fashion house whose roots lie in the bespoke and ready-to-wear tailoring business established by Simeon Simpson in London in 1894. Simpson began with a small tailoring operation in East London and pursued a then-unusual combination of industrial production and traditional craftsmanship. His use of developing machinery, including equipment for buttonholes and electrically powered fabric cutting, allowed the business to produce garments more efficiently while retaining standards associated with bespoke tailoring. The approach helped make higher-quality ready-to-wear clothing more acceptable to professional customers. The business expanded through a series of London factories. Simeon Simpson's son Alexander joined the company in 1917 and later took an increasingly important role. In 1929 he organized the opening of a larger centralized factory in Stoke Newington, which was subsequently enlarged as demand grew. The company also developed a major retail presence. Alexander Simpson founded Simpsons of Piccadilly, a purpose-built London department store designed by Joseph Emberton. It opened in 1936 and became known for advanced architectural and visual-merchandising features, including curved display glass and influential window presentations. The DAKS name was introduced in 1935 for a line of self-supporting trousers. The design used a distinctive waistband construction that avoided the need for braces or a belt and was intended to provide freedom of movement. The trousers were offered in colors and fabrics that broadened the conventional boundaries of menswear. The concept was later adapted for womenswear, including skirts. The name eventually became the principal identity of the business, replacing the older S. Simpson identity in the period after the company was acquired by Japan's Sankyo Seiko in 1991. DAKS clothing gained visibility beyond conventional city tailoring because the practical construction of its garments suited sporting and active settings. The brand supplied or outfitted participants in tennis, golf, motor racing, football, and other sports, and it was associated with the British Olympic team in 1960. During the Second World War, the company was commissioned by the British Government to manufacture uniforms for officers and personnel in the Army, Royal Navy, Royal Air Force, and women's services. Despite bomb damage and interruptions to power at the Stoke Newington factory, the company produced millions of military garments. After the war, DAKS resumed civilian sales, with the Simpsons of Piccadilly store becoming a prominent London destination. The original Piccadilly operation traded for decades and also sold selected external designer labels. In 1999 the business left the original Piccadilly site, which later became a major bookshop, and moved its DAKS flagship and London offices to Old Bond Street. A further Jermyn Street store was later refurbished to emphasize classic menswear. The brand's heritage is reinforced by its royal warrants. The Simpsons Piccadilly business received a warrant from the Duke of Edinburgh in 1956, followed by warrants from Queen Elizabeth II in 1962 and the Prince of Wales in 1982. DAKS also introduced its recognizable house check in 1976. Today the brand remains associated with premium men's and women's clothing, accessories, traditional tailoring, and an understated British luxury position. Reference material describes its products as exported to approximately 30 countries and sold through more than 2,000 specialist shops, department stores, and concessions, although current distribution figures are not independently stated here.
History
DAKS traces its history to 1894, when sixteen-year-old Simeon Simpson rented premises on Middlesex Street in East London and established a tailoring business. Simpson sought to raise the quality of ready-to-wear clothing by combining mechanized production with the fitting, cutting, and finishing standards of traditional tailoring. Machinery for buttonholes and electrically powered cutting enabled the company to increase output while maintaining a reputation for workmanship. The business grew sufficiently to require several London production sites. Alexander Simpson, Simeon's second son, entered the company in 1917 at the age of fifteen. By 1929 he had arranged the construction of a larger factory at Stoke Newington, allowing production to be centralized. Continued growth required later expansion. Alexander also developed the company's retail ambitions, founding Simpsons of Piccadilly, a new London store designed by Joseph Emberton. The building opened in April 1936 and was notable for its modern architecture, curved glass display windows, and ambitious presentation of merchandise. Bauhaus-associated designer László Moholy-Nagy contributed to its visual displays. Alexander Simpson died of leukemia in 1937, aged thirty-four. The DAKS name appeared in 1935 for a new line of self-supporting trousers. Their waistband design was intended to keep the trousers in place without braces or a belt and to permit greater ease of movement. The innovation was offered in a broad range of fabrics and colors and was later extended to womenswear, including skirts. Several explanations have circulated for the name, including accounts involving proposed words, the initials of company figures, and Australian slang for trousers. The name was consistently styled in capitals as a trademark, although ordinary usage often rendered it as Daks. The practical character of the garments made them useful in sporting contexts. DAKS supplied clothing connected with tennis, golf, motor racing, football, and other activities, and the brand was associated with the British Olympic team in 1960. Wartime production was even more extensive. The British Government commissioned the company to make uniforms for the Army, Navy, Royal Air Force, and women's services. The Stoke Newington factory suffered bomb damage and loss of electricity, but the company still produced approximately seven million military garments during the war. After hostilities ended, civilian trade resumed, and the Piccadilly store became known for long queues and a highly personal fitting process. Simpsons of Piccadilly continued for many years as both a retail institution and a seller of other designer labels. The company later broadened its retail portfolio to include names such as Armani and Christian Dior. In 1991 Sankyo Seiko Co., Ltd. acquired the company. During the transition into the modern corporate era, the S. Simpson name was discontinued as DAKS became the principal brand identity. The original Piccadilly store ceased trading in 1999; DAKS moved its flagship and London offices to Old Bond Street, while a Jermyn Street location was subsequently refurbished around classic men's clothing. DAKS's heritage was further marked by the introduction of its house check in 1976 and by a series of royal warrants. A warrant from the Duke of Edinburgh was granted in 1956, followed by warrants from Queen Elizabeth II in 1962 and the Prince of Wales in 1982. These appointments placed the company among the relatively small number of firms to have held warrants from three members of the British royal family. DAKS is therefore positioned at the intersection of British tailoring, department-store history, functional clothing innovation, and traditional luxury branding. Its principal offer remains men's and women's apparel and accessories with an emphasis on classic silhouettes, recognizable checks, and formal British style.
- 2012Jermyn Street store is refurbished
The Jermyn Street store is refurbished with an emphasis on classic men's clothing.
- 1999The Piccadilly flagship moves
DAKS leaves the original Simpsons of Piccadilly premises and relocates its flagship and offices to Old Bond Street.
- 1991Sankyo Seiko acquires the company
Japanese group Sankyo Seiko becomes the owner of the business, which subsequently adopts DAKS as its principal brand identity.
- 1982Prince of Wales royal warrant is granted
The Prince of Wales grants the company a third royal warrant.
- 1976DAKS house check is developed
The brand develops the check pattern that becomes a signature element of its identity.
- 1962Queen's royal warrant is granted
Queen Elizabeth II grants the company a royal warrant.
- 1960Association with the British Olympic team
DAKS is associated with clothing for the British Olympic team.
- 1956First royal warrant is granted
The Duke of Edinburgh grants a royal warrant to the Simpsons Piccadilly business.
- 1940Wartime uniform production expands
The company manufactures uniforms for British military and women's services during the Second World War.
- 1936Simpsons of Piccadilly opens
Alexander Simpson's purpose-built department store opens in London with advanced architecture and distinctive visual merchandising.
- 1935DAKS name and self-supporting trousers are introduced
The DAKS name is used for a new trouser line featuring a patented self-supporting waistband.
- 1929Stoke Newington factory opens
A larger centralized factory is established in Stoke Newington to support the company's growing production requirements.
- 1917Alexander Simpson joins the company
Simeon Simpson's second son enters the family business and later becomes a central figure in its expansion.
- 1894Simeon Simpson establishes the tailoring business
Simeon Simpson begins a London tailoring enterprise focused on combining high standards of craftsmanship with more efficient production.
Products and positioning
British luxury and premium fashion centered on classic tailoring, heritage craftsmanship, restrained design, and royal-warrant heritage.
Self-supporting trousersMen's tailoring1935
Introduced under the DAKS name in 1935, these trousers used a patented waistband intended to keep them in place without braces or a belt. The construction emphasized comfort and freedom of movement while retaining a tailored appearance. The line helped establish DAKS as a recognizable clothing brand rather than only a traditional tailoring business.
Men's tailored clothingMenswear
DAKS men's clothing is rooted in British tailoring and includes formal and smart-casual garments such as suits, jackets, trousers, shirts, knitwear, and coats. The range reflects the brand's preference for classic proportions, restrained styling, practical wearability, and traditional finishing rather than rapidly changing trend-led design.
Women's ready-to-wearWomenswear1930
The company extended its self-supporting waistband concept to women's clothing soon after the original trouser launch. Its women's offer developed into a broader premium ready-to-wear assortment, drawing on British tailoring, structured garments, classic separates, outerwear, and the brand's heritage check.
DAKS house checkPattern and branded accessories1976
Developed in 1976, the DAKS house check is a recurring visual signature used across clothing and accessories. It helps connect contemporary products with the house's British heritage and provides a recognizable alternative to relying solely on logos or seasonal graphics.
AccessoriesFashion accessories
DAKS accessories extend the brand's tailoring and heritage language beyond complete outfits. Depending on the collection, this category may include items such as scarves, bags, belts, small leather goods, hats, and other coordinated accessories, often using restrained branding and the house check.
Flagship businesses
- DAKS self-supporting trousers
- DAKS house-check apparel and accessories
- Classic men's tailoring
- Premium women's ready-to-wear
Brand decisions
- 1999Relocation from Simpsons of PiccadillyStrategy
The original Piccadilly retail operation had become historically important but was no longer the company's principal contemporary location.
What changed. DAKS moved its flagship store and London offices to Old Bond Street and later maintained a separately focused Jermyn Street presence.
Aftermath. The move separated the modern DAKS brand from the original department-store building while retaining its London luxury-retail positioning.
- 1991Acquisition by Sankyo SeikoM&A
The long-established British clothing business entered a new ownership phase as the international fashion market continued to consolidate.
What changed. Sankyo Seiko Co., Ltd. acquired the company.
Aftermath. DAKS became the primary brand identity and the former S. Simpson name was discontinued as the business entered its modern ownership structure.
- 1976Creation of the DAKS house checkStrategy
The brand needed a repeatable visual device that could communicate its heritage across a wider clothing and accessories range.
What changed. DAKS developed a house check pattern that could be applied across products and branded presentation.
Aftermath. The check became one of the brand's most recognizable identity elements.
- 1935Launch of self-supporting trousersProduct launch
The company sought to make tailored clothing more practical and comfortable while broadening the appeal of ready-to-wear garments.
What changed. It introduced a trouser line with a patented waistband that did not require braces or a belt and gave the wearer greater freedom of movement.
Aftermath. The product became the foundation for the DAKS name and helped the company move from a general tailoring identity toward a distinctive branded fashion proposition.
Recent events
- 1999DAKS relocates its London flagship operation
The business ceased trading from the original Simpsons of Piccadilly premises and moved the DAKS flagship store and London offices to Old Bond Street.
Other - 1991Sankyo Seiko acquires DAKS
Japanese company Sankyo Seiko acquired the business, after which the DAKS identity became the principal brand name as the older S. Simpson identity was dropped.
M&A - 1976DAKS develops its house check
The company developed the check pattern that became a recurring visual signature of the DAKS brand.
Other
Sources
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