André Laug

André Laug is an Italian fashion house established in Rome in 1968 by André Laug, a French designer from Alsace who had trained in Paris under André Courrèges and Nina Ricci. With assistance from Susy Gandini, Laug opened his couture house at Piazza di Spagna and developed a reputation for refined womenswear that combined French couture training with the international appeal of Roman fashion. The company’s early growth came through relationships with foreign buyers and American luxury retailers. In 1969 it reached agreements involving Elizabeth Arden, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Martha Phillips, helping introduce the label to the United States. During the 1970s, the house expanded from tailored suits into blouses, ready-to-wear and high-fashion ready-to-wear. One of its best-known lines was the Audrey collection, dedicated to Audrey Hepburn, who became one of Laug’s reference clients and associated figures. The label also dressed a wide range of prominent customers, including Jackie Kennedy, Barbara Bush, Lee Radziwill, Diana Ross, Estée Lauder, Princess Ira von Fürstenberg and members of the Bulgari family. Its runway presentations and editorial work featured models such as Benedetta Barzini, Mirella Petteni Haggiag and Linda Morand, while fashion photographers and publications including Vogue helped establish its visibility. Laug’s design language changed throughout the decade. Collections from 1974 drew on Russian and tsarist imagery, while in 1975 he produced a feminine interpretation of the tuxedo as punk-influenced styles reached European fashion. In 1976 he presented a made-to-measure, high-fashion ready-to-wear concept in a Vogue-staged setting associated with the work of Michelangelo Pistoletto. By the late 1970s, his work had become softer and more colorful. Marabou became a notable 1978 novelty and influenced garments made for the Italian-French film La Cage aux Folles, known in Italy as Il vizietto. The company marked its tenth anniversary in 1978 with a Milan dinner attended by American buyers and international fashion press; at that time it reportedly employed about one hundred full-time workers. In the early 1980s, coat dresses became a major focus, and Laug continued to work with leading magazines, photographers and models. Editorial and runway associations included Susan Hess, Pat Cleveland, Gia Carangi, Linda Evangelista, Brooke Shields, Yasmin Le Bon, Jerry Hall, Iman and Uma Thurman. In 1982 Helmut Newton photographed Laug designs for a Vogue feature written by Natalia Aspesi. Laug’s final major creative direction included modern-art-inspired designs referencing Henri Matisse in 1984. André Laug died in Rome from a heart attack during the night of 15–16 December 1984, aged 52 or 53 according to the stated birth and death dates. After his death, entrepreneur Giancarlo Rossetti, known as Olivier, became company president. Working with Laura della Croce di Dojola and additional design and communications staff, the business continued to develop collections from Laug’s surviving sketches. The posthumous strategy sought to preserve the couture character of the house while broadening its commercial reach. It included a luxury-oriented ready-to-wear line and the lower-priced André Laug Chic collection, which was distributed through approximately 230 stores in Europe, Japan and North America. The brand also extended its visibility into popular culture and commercial presentation, including a yellow dress created for a Ferrero Rocher television advertisement. During the 1990s and early 2000s, the United States remained a principal market, alongside the Middle East. The company later added bridalwear to its offering. After Rossetti died in Rome in 2005, control passed to his heirs. In 2015 the company moved to a showroom on Rampa Mignanelli near the Spanish Steps in Rome. The house remains associated with Italian luxury fashion, historical couture and ready-to-wear, and examples of its dresses are he…

André Laug was born in Alsace on 29 December 1931 and trained in Paris with André Courrèges and Nina Ricci. In 1968 he moved into independent fashion by opening a couture house at Piazza di Spagna in Rome, with the support of Susy Gandini. The Roman location became central to the identity of the house, which combined French technical training with the glamour and international clientele associated with Italian fashion. The business began developing overseas relationships soon after its launch. In 1969 it secured agreements with buyers and luxury retail interests including Elizabeth Arden, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Martha Phillips. These connections established the United States as a significant market. Laug’s clientele included Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy, Barbara Bush, Lee Radziwill, Diana Ross, Estée Lauder, Carroll Baker, Princess Ira von Fürstenberg and other figures from entertainment, politics, society and European aristocracy. Hepburn was particularly important to the brand’s public image, and Laug dedicated a ready-to-wear line called Audrey to her. The collections broadened during the 1970s. After initially becoming known for suits, Laug introduced women’s blouses in 1970 and continued to develop couture, eveningwear and ready-to-wear. Vogue covered his work, including a 1972 feature photographed by Oliviero Toscani. His collections drew on varied cultural and artistic references: Russian and tsarist themes appeared from 1974, and a feminine tuxedo arrived in 1975 as punk began influencing European style. In 1976 he presented a hand-finished, size-based high-fashion ready-to-wear line in a Vogue-associated production involving work by Michelangelo Pistoletto and photography by Norman Parkinson. By the end of the decade, Laug had softened his silhouette and introduced brighter colors. Marabou became a notable 1978 element and influenced costumes created for La Cage aux Folles, the Italian-French production also known as Il vizietto. The house celebrated its tenth year in Italy with an event in Milan attended by American buyers and international journalists. Its reported workforce had reached roughly one hundred employees. The early 1980s brought emphasis on coat dresses and continued editorial exposure. Laug’s clothes were photographed for Vogue by Susan Hess in 1982, and Helmut Newton photographed a 1982 Vogue fashion story written by Natalia Aspesi. The label worked with numerous prominent models, including Pat Cleveland, Gia Carangi, Linda Evangelista, Brooke Shields, Yasmin Le Bon, Jerry Hall and Iman. In 1984 Laug explored modern-art references inspired by Matisse. He died in Rome after a heart attack on 16 December 1984. After his death, Giancarlo Rossetti, known as Olivier, assumed the presidency. He worked with Laura della Croce di Dojola and a broader team of designers and communications personnel to continue the house using Laug’s surviving drawings. This period sought to translate the designer’s couture vocabulary into commercially viable products. The company developed a luxury ready-to-wear line and introduced André Laug Chic, a more accessible women’s line distributed through approximately 230 stores across Europe, Japan and North America. The brand also gained exposure through a Ferrero Rocher television advertisement featuring a yellow Laug dress. The United States remained the leading market during the 1990s and early 2000s, with the Middle East also important. The company expanded into bridal dresses and continued operating under the ownership of Rossetti’s heirs after his death in 2005. In 2015 it moved its showroom to Rampa Mignanelli near the Spanish Steps. Dresses by the house are preserved in the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, reflecting its place in the history of Italian and international fashion.

1. 2015Rome showroom relocation

   The company moved its showroom to Rampa Mignanelli near the Spanish Steps.

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2. 2005Company passes to Rossetti heirs

   Following Giancarlo Rossetti’s death, ownership passed to his heirs.

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3. 1984Founder dies

   André Laug died in Rome after a heart attack; the company subsequently continued under Giancarlo Rossetti.

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4. 1978Tenth anniversary and marabou novelty

   The company marked ten years in Italy, while marabou became a notable design element in the winter collection.

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5. 1976High-fashion ready-to-wear presentation

   The house presented a hand-finished, size-based ready-to-wear concept in a Vogue-associated artistic setting.

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6. 1975Feminine tuxedo introduced

   Laug presented a feminine interpretation of the tuxedo during the period when punk influences were entering European fashion.

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7. 1974Russian and tsarist-inspired collections

   The collections adopted Russian and tsarist historical references.

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8. 1970Expansion into women's blouses

   Laug broadened the product range beyond suits with women's blouses.

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9. 1969First international buyer agreements

   The house established early foreign-buyer and American retail relationships involving Elizabeth Arden, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Martha Phillips.

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10. 1968Couture house founded in Rome

    André Laug opened his couture house at Piazza di Spagna with assistance from Susy Gandini.

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An Italian luxury fashion house rooted in Roman couture, known for elegant womenswear, celebrity and society clientele, theatrical fashion references, and a later combination of couture-influenced design with broader ready-to-wear distribution.

• AudreyReady-to-wear

  A women's ready-to-wear line dedicated to Audrey Hepburn, one of André Laug's prominent clients and reference figures. The line connected the house's couture vocabulary with Hepburn's public image and helped reinforce the label's association with polished, internationally recognizable womenswear.

• André Laug ChicDiffusion fashion

  A lower-priced women's clothing line developed after Laug's death under Giancarlo Rossetti's management. It was intended to make the house's style accessible beyond its luxury couture and high-fashion ready-to-wear offer and was distributed through approximately 230 stores in Europe, Japan and North America.

• Couture and high-fashion ready-to-wearLuxury womenswear1968

  The core of the house consisted of couture and highly finished womenswear, including suits, blouses, evening dresses, coat dresses and artistic seasonal collections. The brand emphasized hand-finished construction, distinctive materials and references ranging from Russian history to modern art.

• BridalwearBridal fashion

  Wedding dresses became part of the company's later fashion business, extending the house's formal-dress expertise into bridal clothing.

• 1980Ferrero Rocher yellow dress

  Italy

  The brand created a yellow dress used in a Ferrero Rocher television commercial, bringing André Laug designs into a widely visible confectionery advertising context.

  Outcome. The campaign extended the house's visibility beyond fashion media and runway presentation.

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• 2015Relocate the Rome showroomOther

  The company continued operating from Rome while maintaining its connection to the Spanish Steps fashion district.

  What changed. André Laug moved its showroom to Rampa Mignanelli, close to the Spanish Steps.

  Aftermath. The relocation reinforced the brand's Roman base and couture-house identity.

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• 1985Broaden distribution with André Laug ChicStrategy

  The post-founder business sought to combine the prestige of couture-influenced design with a wider commercial reach.

  What changed. The company introduced the André Laug Chic line at a lower price point and distributed it through approximately 230 stores across Europe, Japan and North America.

  Aftermath. The move diversified the label's offer beyond its core high-fashion and luxury ready-to-wear business.

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• 1984Continue the house through Laug's surviving sketchesStrategy

  André Laug died in December 1984, leaving the company without its founding designer.

  What changed. Under president Giancarlo Rossetti, the company organized a design and communications team and developed new collections from drawings left by Laug.

  Aftermath. The strategy preserved continuity with Laug's visual language while allowing the business to continue after his death.

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• 2015André Laug moves to a new Rome showroom

  The company relocated its showroom to Rampa Mignanelli near Rome’s Spanish Steps.

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• 2005Ownership passes to Rossetti’s heirs

  After Giancarlo Rossetti died in Rome, the company passed to his heirs.

  Leadership change
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• 1984André Laug dies in Rome

  Founder and designer André Laug died at his Rome home after a heart attack on the night of 15–16 December.

  Leadership change
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• 1984Giancarlo Rossetti takes over the fashion house

  Following Laug’s death, entrepreneur Giancarlo Rossetti, known as Olivier, became president and led the continuation of the house.

  Leadership change
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1. André Laug