Warm & Wonderful

Warm & Wonderful Knitwear is a British fashion brand specialising in knitwear. Founded by Joanna Osborne and Sally Muir in 1979, the label is best known for its "black sheep" sweater, famously worn by Diana, Princess of Wales.[1][2] In 2023, a Warm & Wonderful jumper worn by Diana became the most valuable sweater in history.[3]

History

Early history

Osborne and Muir began selling their jumpers from a market stall in London's Covent Garden in 1979. Osborne and Muir are both professional artists (Osborne a sculptor, and Muir a painter), and both have had work featured in the Royal Academy Summer Exhibition.[4] They have also published a series of knitting books for adults and children.

The brand's earliest designs included a jumper knitted to look like a brick wall, which customers could personalize with knitted "graffiti," and a grass-green jumper covered in knitted rows of white sheep and one black sheep.[1][5]

The "black-sheep sweater" (as it came to be known[1]), which Osborne and Muir subsequently introduced in other colours, proved to be a favourite among London's Sloane Ranger set, as well as artists, entertainers, and even royalty: David Bowie, Andy Warhol, Shelley Duvall, Penelope Keith, Anthony Andrews, and Princess Diana.[1][6][7]

About the black-sheep sweater, Osborne and Muir have stated:"As artists, we've always identified with black sheep ourselves: because of a recessive gene, black sheep are born with black wool in flocks of otherwise white sheep (in a flock of a hundred, there might only be one black sheep!). We never imagined that our sheep jumpers would bring so many people so much joy, though we always had fun ourselves.[8]"

Diana, Princess of Wales

The brand received international attention when Diana, Princess of Wales (then Lady Diana Spencer) wore a red Warm & Wonderful sheep jumper in 1981.[5][2] Photographs of Diana wearing the sweater were circulated widely in the international media. Many members of the press speculated that the sweater was a metaphor, signaling to the world that Diana felt like the "black sheep" of the Royal Family.[1][9] Diana wore the Warm & Wonderful sheep jumper again in 1983, eliciting further media attention.[1][10]

Re-launch

In 2020, American designer Jack Carlson helped to revive the label in partnership with Osborne and Muir. Together, they re-launched the original sheep sweater for the first time in over twenty-five years (initially as a collaboration with the brand Rowing Blazers) and then re-established the Warm & Wonderful brand in its own right with Carlson serving as the label's creative director.[5][11][12]

Since then, Warm & Wonderful has been featured in Vogue, ELLE, The Telegraph, The Times, Tatler, Harper's Bazaar, People, The Financial Times, Town and Country, Vanity Fair, and The New Yorker.[13][14][15][16][5][11][12][17][1][18]

In 2021 and 2022, Warm & Wonderful launched collaborations with luxury British luggage manufacturer Globe-Trotter and with heritage footwear company Sperry Top-Sider, featuring luggage and handbags, and canvas sneakers, respectively, emblazoned with its famous sheep motif.[19][20][21]

Products and distribution

Aside from its famous sheep sweater in a range of colours, Warm & Wonderful has offered other knitwear designs over the years, ranging from other humorous or country-themed graphic jumpers to solid-colour Shetland, cashmere, and cotton knits. The label has also created accessories and other apparel featuring its sheep motif, including its collaborations with Globe-Trotter and Sperry.[12][22][23]

Warm & Wonderful knitwear has been sold at Saks, Henri Bendel, Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Liberty, Isetan, Mitsukoshi, Le Bon Marché, and many other stores over the years; and since 1982, Osborne and Muir have operated shops in Wandsworth, Primrose Hill, and Brighton — most recently opening a pop-up shop in London's Seven Dials district, very near the original market stall in Covent Garden in 2021.[24]

Impact

Actress Emma Corrin, portraying Princess Diana, wore a Warm & Wonderful sheep sweater on the Netflix series The Crown.[25]

The Victoria & Albert Museum, Britain's national archive of textiles and fashion, features a Warm & Wonderful sheep jumper in its permanent collection as part of Britain's national cultural heritage.[26][25][2]

In 2023, Sotheby's announced that it would be bringing Diana's original Warm & Wonderful sweater to auction during New York Fashion Week, headlining its inaugural "Fashion Icons" sale. The sweater, which carried an estimate of $50,000-$80,000,[27] sold for $1.14 million, making it the most valuable sweater in history.[28][3]

References

  1. Rachel Syme. The Second Life of Princess Diana's Most Notorious Sweater The New Yorker, 20 November 2020, retrieved 2023-03-11^
  2. Elise Taylor. An Ode to Princess Diana's Campy Sweaters and Cardigans Vogue, 17 November 2020, retrieved 2023-03-11^
  3. Behold: The Most Expensive Sweater in the World Vogue, 2023-09-14, retrieved 2023-11-25^
  4. Genevieve Fox. 'They save us': Sally Muir on the art of drawing rescue dogs The Observer, 12 February 2023, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  5. Bethan Holt. The story behind Princess Diana's most famous jumpers – and how you can now buy them again The Telegraph, 11 October 2020, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  6. Eric Twardzik. Warm & Wonderful, the Maker of Princess Diana's Infamous Black Sheep Sweater, Is Back Robb Report, 20 October 2021, retrieved 2023-03-11^
  7. '80s Brand Behind Princess Diana's Sheep Sweater Launches a New Collection For the Festive Season Yahoo Life, 14 October 2021, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  8. About Us Warm & Wonderful, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  9. Emily Cronin. Princess Diana's 12 most influential looks The Times, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  10. Bethan Holt. Revealed: why Princess Diana had to replace her beloved sheep jumper The Telegraph, 16 November 2020, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  11. Baaaa for business: Princess Diana's iconic sheep sweater is back Financial Times, 13 October 2020, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  12. The Iconic Black Sheep Sweater Is Discounted Right Now Town & Country, 5 January 2023, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  13. Jane McFarland. Princess Diana has inspired these statement cardigans The Times, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  14. Annabel Sampson. Princess Diana's famous sheep jumper is being reissued Tatler, 15 October 2020, retrieved 2023-03-11^
  15. Rowing Blazers Rereleases Two of Princess Diana's Most Iconic Sweaters Harper's BAZAAR, 8 October 2020, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  16. Stephanie Petit. Princess Diana's 'Black Sheep' Sweater Spoke Volumes — and She Was Only 21! People, 16 July 2020, retrieved 2023-03-11^
  17. Emily Kirkpatrick. You Can Now Buy an Exact Replica of Princess Diana's Famous "Black Sheep" Sweater Vanity Fair, 8 October 2020, retrieved 2023-03-11^
  18. Why the Fashion World Still Looks to Princess Diana ELLE, 21 December 2021, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  19. A New Way to Sport Princess Di's "Black Sheep" Sweater airmail.news, retrieved 2023-07-10^
  20. Stephen Garner. Princess Diana's Famous Red Sheep Sweater is Getting the Sperry Treatment for Fall Footwear News, 2022-02-14, retrieved 2023-07-10^
  21. Carrie Bell. Princess Diana's Iconic Sheep Sweater Is Reincarnated As Sperry Sneakers Rolling Stone, 2022-11-16, retrieved 2023-07-10^
  22. A New Way to Sport Princess Di's "Black Sheep" Sweater airmail.news, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  23. Carrie Bell. Princess Diana's Iconic Sheep Sweater Is Reincarnated As Sperry Sneakers Rolling Stone, 16 November 2022, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  24. Stephen Garner. WARM & WONDERFUL LAUNCH NEW WEBSITE, SHOP, AND COLLECTION MR Magazine, 14 October 2021, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  25. The True Story Behind Princess Diana's 'Black Sheep' Jumper Grazia USA, 18 November 2020, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  26. Victoria and Albert Museum. Sheep Victoria and Albert Museum: Explore the Collections, 1979, retrieved 2023-03-12^
  27. Princess Diana's famous sheep jumper is going to auction Harper's BAZAAR, 2023-06-27, retrieved 2023-07-10^
  28. Leah Dolan, CNN. Princess Diana's 'black sheep' knit is the most valuable sweater ever sold at auction CNN, 2023-09-14, retrieved 2023-11-25^