Opening Ceremony is a fashion brand founded in 2002 by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. The brand designs and creates its own products and also retails other emerging fashion labels,[1] being early retailers of Havaianas and Topshop,[2] and also Alexander Wang, Comme Des Garcons, Proenza Schouler and Rodarte.[2] The cofounders believed that a person willing to buy luxury goods would also be willing to buy cheap T-shirts, socks, and art pieces in the same retail space.[2]
In January 2020, Opening Ceremony was acquired by New Guards Group, a subsidiary of Farfetch. In late 2023, Farfetch was itself acquired by the South Korean e-commerce company Coupang for $500 million.[3][4]
History
Founding
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon opened Opening Ceremony in downtown New York in 2002.[5]
Stores
The Tokyo store, located in Shibuya, was ranked by the American magazine Complex as the fourth-best store in the world in 2013. Opening Ceremony also operated a store in Los Angeles.[6]
Collaborations
In 2008, Chloë Sevigny designed a clothing line with Opening Ceremony, working closely with co-founder Humberto Leon. The collection sold at Barneys nationwide.[6] In 2009, Opening Ceremony collaborated with Spike Jonze on a collection tied to his film adaptation of Where the Wild Things Are, with jewelry provided by Pamela Love.[7] In 2010, Opening Ceremony collaborated with Maison Margiela on the French fashion house's first co-branded project, followed by a womenswear line for Margiela's MM6 label in 2011.[8] In 2017, Esprit and Opening Ceremony created a joint collection.[9] In 2018, Opening Ceremony partnered with Crosby Studios to produce a collection of tables, chairs, and furniture in monochromatic royal purple.[8][10] The Spring 2018 collection was presented after hours at Disneyland's Toontown to mark Mickey Mouse's 90th birthday, with Mickey and Minnie Mouse walking the runway.[11][12]
Fashion shows
Opening Ceremony often replaced traditional runway presentations with performance art. For the Spring 2015 collection, American actor Jonah Hill wrote the one-act play Lost Cotton.[13] In 2015, choreographer Justin Peck of the New York City Ballet directed the Spring 2016 show, in which models collapsed to the ground and rose again, performing in a garden setting.[14] The collection incorporated bonsai embroidery, African textiles, and Moorish-inspired silhouettes.[14]
For Fall 2017, Spike Jonze directed and Ryan Heffington choreographed "Changers," a dance piece about a romantic relationship, starring Lakeith Stanfield and Mia Wasikowska at La MaMa Experimental Theatre Club.[15][16] That year, the brand also collaborated with the New York City Ballet on "The Times Are Racing," dressing dancers in casual attire.[17]
The Spring 2019 show, "The Gift of Showz," was held at (Le) Poisson Rouge and featured Sasha Velour, Shea Couleé, Lypsinka, West Dakota, and 40 other drag queens; Christina Aguilera opened the finale.[18] The collection featured summer dresses and floral prints alongside all-black outfits.[19]
Lookbooks
In 2008, Chloë Sevigny modelled in and published a lookbook with Opening Ceremony, photographed by Mark Borthwick.[6][20]
For their February 2019 lookbook, Leon and Lim featured Asian-American figures including musician Ryuichi Sakamoto, chef Angela Dimayuga, and designer Anna Sui.[21]
Kenzo
In 2011, Lim and Leon became co-creative directors of Kenzo, owned by LVMH.[22]
In 2019, they announced they were stepping down after reacquiring all shares of Opening Ceremony from Berkshire Partners, which had held a minority stake. Their final Kenzo show was on June 23, 2019, for the Spring 2020 collection.[23]
Acquisition and closure
On January 13, 2020, the company was acquired by New Guards Group, which owns Off-White and other streetwear brands. On January 14, Lim and Leon announced that all retail stores would close that year, citing rapid changes in consumer behaviour and shopping habits.[24][25]
Under New Guards Group, the brand continued releasing collections. Its Fall/Winter 2022 collection was its most recent confirmed release.[26] No new collections have been announced since.
In popular culture
- In 2016, Drake wore the bright orange hoodie and sweatpants from the Opening Ceremony x Esprit collection.[27]
- Troye Sivan and Nicki Minaj, along with other LGBTQIA+ models, attended the brand's Spring 2019 drag-inspired fashion show.[28]
- Rihanna wore Opening Ceremony on the cover of her album Talk That Talk (2011).
- Omarion wore an Opening Ceremony varsity jacket in the music video for his 2014 song "Post to Be".[29]
- The Linda Lindas wore Opening Ceremony on the back cover of their album Growing Up (2022).
See also
External links
References
- Opening Ceremony's Carol Lim on Finding Politics in Fashion Time, December 9, 2016, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Ariel Levy. The Success of Opening Ceremony's Carol Lim and Humberto Leon ELLE, August 18, 2010, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Chantal Fernandez. Opening Ceremony Acquired by Off-White Backer New Guards Group Business of Fashion, January 13, 2020, retrieved February 18, 2020^
- Luisa Zargani. What to Watch: New Guards Group Faces Uncertain Future WWD, September 4, 2025^
- Katharine K. Zarrella. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim Interview Magazine, April 1, 2012^
- Alison Griffin. Miss independent Teen Vogue, February 2008^
- Eugene Kan. Where The Wild Things Are × Opening Ceremony Collection Hypebeast, September 25, 2009^
- A Look Back at Opening Ceremony's 20 Most Notable Collaborations HYPEBEAST, January 15, 2020, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Jessica Iredale. Esprit x Opening Ceremony Campaign Casts Famous Daughters and Sons WWD, April 26, 2017, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Crosby Studios news and design Dezeen, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- This Fashion Brand Staged a Full Runway Show at Disneyland Time, March 8, 2018, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Opening Ceremony Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show Vogue, March 8, 2018, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Spike Jonze and Jonah Hill Turn the Fashion World Inside Out Vanity Fair, September 8, 2014^
- Kristi Garced. Opening Ceremony RTW Spring 2016 WWD, September 14, 2015, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Bridget Foley. Opening Ceremony Fall 2017 WWD, September 11, 2017, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Kristen Tauer. Opening Ceremony's Front Row at La MaMa Experimental Theatre Club WWD, September 11, 2017^
- Jessica Iredale. Opening Ceremony Choreographs an Evening of Ballet, Fashion and Politics WWD, January 29, 2017, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Matthew Schneier. Fashion Week's a Drag at Opening Ceremony The New York Times, September 10, 2018, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Opening Ceremony Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show Vogue, September 10, 2018, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony Opening Ceremony, 2008^
- Kimberly Yam. Opening Ceremony Designers Honor Asian Pioneers In Fashion Week Lookbook Huffington Post, February 16, 2019, retrieved 2020-06-05^
- Rebecca Suhrawardi. Kenzo: How Carol Lim and Humberto Leon Are Setting The Mark for LVMH Brands Forbes, retrieved 2020-06-05^
- Steff Yotka. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim Leave Kenzo After Eight Years Vogue, June 14, 2019, retrieved 2020-06-05^
- Lisa Lockwood. Opening Ceremony Sold to New Guards Group WWD, January 13, 2020, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Dominic-Madori Davis. Opening Ceremony, the high-end retailer beloved by millennials, is shuttering all its stores in 2020 – and it's just the latest victim of the retail apocalypse Business Insider Australia, January 16, 2020, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Aaron Chow. Opening Ceremony Celebrates the Universal Language of Food for FW22 Hypebeast, July 29, 2022^
- Lauren Alexis Fisher. Drake Wearing An ESPRIT Tracksuit Is Exactly What Your Friday Needs Harper's BAZAAR, October 28, 2016, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Opening Ceremony Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show Vogue, September 10, 2018, retrieved 2020-05-28^
- Omarion Ft. Chris Brown & Jhene Aiko – Post To Be (Official Video) YouTube Published: February 17, 2015^