Present
As the dot.com boom decline hit world markets, the demand for bespoke suits declined. In financial troubles, Austin Reed sold the loss-making Chester Barrie business to Thompson Holdings (Richard Thompson) in 2000. After the business went in receivership in 2002, the Crewe factory sold to former management, trading as the Cheshire Clothing Company, who later moved to a new factory. SRG Group plc acquired the Chester Barrie Brand and worldwide licensing rights, and engage CCC to manufacture top-end bespoke suits.[3]
In 2006, CCC itself went into receivership and closed. A new independent manufacturing company was formed in Crewe, Cheshire Bespoke, who again widened their manufacturing offering to supply ranges for brands including Ozwald Boateng.[4]
In 2007, the ownership of the Chester Barrie brand and worldwide licensing rights were sold to Prominent Europe. This has given the brand a new lease of life, while the relationship with Cheshire Bespoke is much diminished.
Chester Barrie ran a number of concessions within department stores across the UK - including Harvey Nichols, Austin Reed, John Lewis and House of Fraser - where they offered their ready-to-wear tailoring as well as a Made To Measure service. The product offer was expanded to include shirts and ties plus a more "dress-down" selection, reflecting the shift in styles of dressing..
The presence of other brands, introduced to the portfolio in 2015 (and sold in the same locations), with arguably stronger identities and a wider-global appeal ([5]) ensured a continued dilution of the Chester Barrie identity in a changing-modern market. Chester Barrie's then-Buyer, Chris Modoo, doubled-down on the classic English look, bringing in Edward Sexton to help with the development of the brand's "block" ([6]). However, this alienated the brand from the "mainstream" stores it had concessions in, which saw competitors, and the market as a whole, moving to softer-shouldered garments, a more contemporary silhouette and more lifestyle-led; and in 2017 Chris Modoo was made redundant by Prominent Europe. However, a new creative direction saw the brand split into three distinctive categories: Chester by Chester Barrie (an entry level version of the brand, primarily sold in John Lewis), Chester Barrie Black Label (primarily sold in the House of Fraser concessions) and Chester Barrie Gold Label (sold in the flagship Savile Row store). It was hoped the "halo effect"[7] of the high end product would filter down from the gold label to the other lines.
There was some initial success, with a bumper year in 2018, as gross sales for Prominent Europe began to soar,[8] however this growth was down to the business having opened more locations in House of Fraser and less about the Chester Barrie brand itself, this was in spite of a £100,000 re-fit of the flagship ([9][10]).
However, in October 2019 Prominent Europe announced to its Chester Barrie staff that they were under threat of redundancy as they looked to restructure the overall business[11] and in January 2020, Prominent Europe made the decision to close its branded business,[12] with the closure of the Savile Row flagship (the building has since been taken up by Daisy Knatchbull[13]) and it being exited from the aforementioned department stores. The last remaining store is the Chester Barrie outlet in York, which is scheduled to close in early 2021. It is unknown if there is a buyer in place to salvage the brand.
In 2022 Prominent Europe sold Chester Barrie to a UK based private consortium with extensive industry experience and plans for the brand worldwide.
