Career
In 1888, Breedlove moved, with Lelia, to St. Louis, where three of her brothers lived. Breedlove found work as a laundress, earning barely more than a dollar a day. Breedlove was determined to make enough money to provide Lelia with formal education.[15] During the 1880s, Breedlove lived in a community where Ragtime music was developed; she sang at St. Paul African Methodist Episcopal Church and started to yearn for an educated life as she watched the community of women at her church.
Breedlove suffered severe dandruff and other scalp ailments, including baldness, due to skin disorders and the application of harsh products to cleanse hair and wash clothes. Other contributing factors to her hair loss included poor diet, illnesses, and infrequent bathing and hair washing during a time when most Americans lacked indoor plumbing, central heating, and electricity.[13][16][17]
Initially, Breedlove learned about hair care from her brothers, who were barbers in St. Louis.[16] Around the time of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition (World's Fair at St. Louis in 1904), Breedlove became a commission agent selling products for Annie Turnbo Malone, an African-American haircare entrepreneur and owner of the Poro Company.[5] Sales at the exposition were a disappointment since the African-American community was largely ignored.
While working for Malone, who would later become a significant rival in the haircare industry, Breedlove began to take her new knowledge and develop a product line.[12] In July 1905, when Breedlove was 37 years old, she moved with Lelia to Denver, Colorado, where she initially continued to sell products for Malone while developing her own haircare business. However, the two businesswomen had a falling-out when Malone accused Breedlove of stealing her formula, a mixture of petroleum jelly and sulfur that had been in use for a hundred years.[19]
After marrying Charles Walker in 1906, Breedlove marketed herself as "Madam C. J. Walker", an independent hairdresser and cosmetic cream retailer. ("Madam" was adopted from women pioneers of the French beauty industry.) Charles, also her business partner, provided advice on advertising and promotion. Walker sold her products door to door, teaching other black women how to groom and style their hair.[7][12]
In 1906, Walker put A'Lelia in charge of the mail-order operation in Denver while she and Charles traveled throughout the southern and eastern United States to expand the business.[20][16][17][21] In 1908, Walker and her husband relocated to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, where they opened a beauty parlor and established Lelia College[22] to train "hair culturists". As an advocate of black women's economic independence, Walker opened training programs in the "Walker System" for her national network of licensed sales agents who earned healthy commissions (Michaels, PhD. 2015).
After Walker closed the business in Denver in 1907, A'Lelia joined her in Pittsburgh. In 1910, when Walker established a new base in Indianapolis, A'Lelia ran the day-to-day operations in Pittsburgh.[23] A'Lelia also persuaded her mother to establish an office and beauty salon in New York City's growing Harlem neighborhood in 1913; it became a center of African-American culture.[24]
In 1910, Walker relocated her businesses to Indianapolis, where she established the headquarters for the Madam C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company. Walker initially purchased a house and factory at 640 North West Street.[25] Walker later built a factory, hair salon, and beauty school to train her sales agents and added a laboratory to help with research.[17] Walker also assembled a staff that included Freeman Ransom, Robert Lee Brokenburr, Alice Kelly, and Marjorie Joyner, among others, to assist in managing the growing company.[12] Many of her company's employees, including those in key management and staff positions, were women.[24]
Walker designed a method of grooming to promote hair growth and to condition the scalp through the use of her products.[12] The system included a shampoo, a pomade stated to help hair grow, strenuous brushing, and applying iron combs to hair; Walker purported that method made lackluster and brittle hair soft and luxuriant.[20][16] Walker's product line had several competitors. Walker's competitors produced similar products in Europe and the United States, including Malone's Poro System and Sarah Spencer Washington's Apex System.
Between 1911 and 1919, during the height of her career, Walker and her company employed several thousand women as sales agents for its products.[7] By 1917, the company claimed to have trained nearly 20,000 women.[25] While some sources have written that the women dressed in a characteristic uniform of white shirts and black skirts and carried black satchels, there is nothing in the Walker Beauty School manual that verifies that. Others have written the agents focused on door-to-door sales as they visited houses around the United States and in the Caribbean offering Walker's hair pomade and other products packaged in tin containers carrying her image. Still, the typical scenario involved Walker beauty culturists demonstrating their products in their homes and beauty salons because they needed a water source to show how the products worked. Walker understood the power of advertising and brand awareness. Heavy advertising, primarily in African-American newspapers and magazines, and Walker's frequent travels to promote her products helped make her well known in the United States.
In addition to training in sales and grooming, Walker showed other Black women how to budget and build businesses and encouraged them to become financially independent. In 1917, inspired by the model of the National Association of Colored Women, Walker began organizing her sales agents into state and local clubs. The result was the establishment of the National Beauty Culturists and Benevolent Association of Madam C. J. Walker Agents (predecessor to the Madam C. J. Walker Beauty Culturists Union of America).[7]
Its first annual conference convened in Philadelphia during the summer of 1917 with 200 attendees. The conference was among the first national gatherings of women entrepreneurs to discuss business and commerce.[13][20] During the convention, Walker gave prizes to women who had sold the most products and brought in the most new sales agents. Walker also rewarded those who made the most considerable contributions to charities in their communities.[20]
Walker's name became even more widely known by the 1920s, after her death, as her company's business market expanded beyond the United States to Cuba, Jamaica, Haiti, Panama, and Costa Rica.[20][16][24][27]
