Design
After her studies, she came back to London and launched her collection with a show presented by Jay Jopling of White Cube Gallery. The show consisted of sterling silver necklaces, gold rings and sterling silver vases.
She started selling jewelry through luxury fashion stores worldwide, such as Colette Paris, Maxfield LA, Browns London, Selfridges London, Luisa Via Roma Florence, Jeffreys New York, and Joyce Hong Kong.
In 1995, Amfitheatrof started consulting for fashion brands on designing jewelry and accessories. She worked with brands like Rifat Ozbek, Balenciaga, Alice Temperley, Chanel, Fendi, and Marni.[10] For Marni, she launched their first eyewear collection and consulted for their accessories, including shoes and bags. For Chanel, Amfitheatrof designed all the hardware for bags, shoes, belts, and a line of silver jewelry.
She has worked for the British jeweler Asprey & Garrard.[11]
During her time as the consultant creative director at Wedgwood in 2008, Amfitheatrof created many new tabletop and glassware collections, including their archival tea collection, which is still one of the best-selling gift items.[12]
Following the death of Attilio Codognato in 2023, she took over creative control of the jewelry company Casa Codognato while maintaining her role as artistic director of jewelry at Louis Vuitton.[13]
Art
In 2001 Amfitheatrof set up RS&A, a London-based contemporary artist agency with Mark Sanders and Julia Royse.[14]
From 2010 to 2013, she was the head curator of the Gucci Museo in Florence and curated exhibitions globally.[11]
In 2010, she organized and curated the Damien Hirst exhibition "Cornucopia" at the Musée Océanographique in Monaco.[15]
The following year, she curated and selected 23 works from the Francois Pinault Collection of Contemporary Art exhibited for the first time in Asia in a show entitled Agony and Ecstasy. This was presented at SongEun ArtSpace in Seoul, Korea.[16]
Tiffany & Co.
After five years of searching for a design director, Tiffany & Co. appointed Amfitheatrof.[21] She became the first-ever female design director in 2014.[4] Her first collection, Tiffany T, was launched exactly a year after her arrival. She designed a range of minimalist necklaces, cuffs, and rings meant for layering and daily wear, and also created the advertising campaign, which was shot by Craig McDean, styled by Karl Templer and featured Freja Beha Erichsen.[22][23] This was followed by the collections "Victoria Bows & Infinity" (2015), "Return to Love" (2016), "1837" (2017), "Collectibles" (2017), "Sweet Nothings" (2017).
During her three and a half years as the head design director, she approved the repositioning of the Haute Joaillerie for the Tiffany Blue Book Collection, that comprised 250 unique pieces.[24]
Pauer
In March 2019, Amfitheatrof launched her line, originally under the name Thief & Heist, and then rebranded in 2022 to Pauer, a new drop-driven, direct-to-consumer collection.[21] In it, she brought back the tag bracelet launched in the late 1990s and amassed a large following. Twenty years later, she reintroduced it again in a collaboration with Seventeen, a South Korean band. The tag is made using partly reground nylon and recycled silver. She also launched the Codebreaker Collection, a modern take on the charms and ID. Using a patent pending mechanism to customize letters, symbols and studs in sterling silver under the banner The Metal is the Message, customers can customize and personalize their pieces using universal charms called Brix to create and design their pieces. The collection is made using 100% recycled silver and packaging made of ground pulp.[35]
Louis Vuitton
Amfitheatrof became the artistic director of jewelry and watches at Louis Vuitton in April 2018.[1]
Her first Louis Vuitton Fine Jewelry Collection, B Blossom, debuted in late 2018, featuring a reinterpretation of the Monogram Flower, created by Georges Vuitton in 1896.[36]
In July 2019, she designed the Riders of the Knights High Jewelry Collection, inspired by medieval heroines.[37]
The LV Volt Fine Jewelry Collection was introduced in 2020,[38] followed by Amfitheatrof's second Louis Vuitton High Jewelry Collection, Stellar Times.[39]
