Berluti

Berluti is a French leather maker that manufactures menswear, especially the leather finishing of calfskin, kangaroo leather and alligator skin[2] in its production of shoes and boots. It makes leather belts, bags, and wallets, as well as bespoke and ready-to-wear garments. Established in 1895 by Italian Alessandro Berluti of Marche, Berluti is based in Paris on rue Marbeuf. The brand was bought by LVMH in 1993.[3]

In 2023, the brand returned to Paris Fashion Week despite operating without a creative director.[4] The role was most recently held by Kris Van Assche from 2018 to 2021.[5]

History

Berluti was founded in 1895 by Italian Alessandro Berluti, and later run by Olga Squeri, also known as Olga Berluti.[6] The LVMH group acquired Berluti in 1993. In 2012, Berluti acquired Paris tailor house Arnys and launched its first prêt-à-porter menswear collections.[7]

In 2011, Olga Berluti was named creative director of the Berluti Art line.[8]

From 2011 to 2023, Berluti was headed by LVMH's CEO Bernard Arnault's son, Antoine Arnault, who also serves as the chairman of Loro Piana.[9] In March 2014, Isabella Capece Galeota became director of image and communications.[10][11]

Between 2011 and 2014, Berluti increased its annual revenue from less than 30 million euros ($32.6 million) to €100 million ($109 million), having expanded its product offering, bought a custom atelier and increased its global store network to 46 boutiques.[12]

In 2013, Berluti worked with Dutch artist Maarten Baas on created a series of sculptures.[13]

In 2017, Berluti introduced a sunglass collection in collaboration with Oliver Peoples.[14]

In 2018, creative director Kris Van Assche reconfigured the existing Berluti logo based on one he found carved into a shoe last and devised with M/M Paris.[15]

All the footwear manufacturing and leather goods are produced in the town of Gaibanella in the municipality of Ferrara,[16] while Paris is the location of the corporate headquarters.

Berluti designed uniforms for the French team at the opening ceremony of the 2024 Olympics and Paralympics in France.[17][18]

Creative directors

Recognition

In 2017 Business of Fashion named Berluti among the 16 best companies to work for in the fashion industry.[29]

References

  1. Berluti store directory.^
  2. Berluti Stores^
  3. LVMH Using Berluti Brand as a Steppingstone in Menswear Wall Street Journal, Christina Passariello, January 29, 2014^
  4. Joelle Diderich. Berluti Returns to Paris Fashion Week With a New Approach WWD, 2023-01-18, retrieved 2024-08-08^
  5. The Challenge of Freedom: Kris Van Assche on Rebooting Berluti Luke Leitch, vogue.com 17 January 2019^
  6. Olga Berluti retrieved 1 December 2013^
  7. Nadya Masidlover. LVMH Acquires Taste for Bespoke Wall Street Journal, 15 June 2012, retrieved 23 April 2020^
  8. Katya Foreman (26 September 2011), Olga Berluti Assumes Berluti Creative Role Women's Wear Daily.^
  9. businessoffashion.com Antoine Arnault^
  10. Socha, Miles. Louis Vuitton Taps Edouard Schneider to Head P.R. WWD, 17 March 2014, retrieved 18 March 2014^
  11. Miles Socha (21 November 2023), Antoine Arnault to Relinquish CEO Role at Berluti Women's Wear Daily.^
  12. Elizabeth Paton (2 February 2016), Changes at Brioni and Berluti Continue Designer Shuffle New York Times.^
  13. Rachel Felder (5 December 2013), Berluti Does Basel Women's Wear Daily.^
  14. Miles Socha (28 October 2016), Berluti, Oliver Peoples Team for Eyewear Women's Wear Daily.^
  15. Alexander Fury (18 January 2019), AW19 Paris mens: The Berluti re-boot Financial Times.^
  16. FashionNetwork com WW. Berluti picks up speed with a large production site in Italy FashionNetwork.com, retrieved 23 April 2020^
  17. Mimosa Spencer (16 November 2023), LVMH's Berluti to design Olympics opening ceremony uniforms for French teams Reuters.^
  18. Dazed. The hardest Olympic uniforms of all time Dazed, 2024-07-25, retrieved 2024-08-08^
  19. berluti.com Alessandro Sartori Retrieved 5 November 2015^
  20. Kate Abnett, Berluti Names Haider Ackermann Creative Director businessoffashion.com 1 September 2016^
  21. LUKE LEITCH Why Haider Ackermann’s New Berluti Gig Is Menswear’s Most Tantalizing Appointment vogue.com 1 September 2016^
  22. Vanessa Friedman, Haider Ackermann Named Creative Director of Berluti The New York Times 2016/09/01^
  23. Megan Gustashaw, Berluti Names Haider Ackermann as Creative Director GQ.com^
  24. Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017^
  25. Fall/Winter 2017 berluti.com^
  26. Matthew Schneier. Haider Ackermann Exits Berluti The New York Times, 30 March 2018, retrieved 4 April 2018^
  27. Steff Yotka. Kris Van Assche Named Artistic Director at Berluti Vogue, 3 April 2018, retrieved 4 April 2018^
  28. Login • Instagram^
  29. Taylor Branson, THE FASHION COMPANIES YOU SHOULD BE WORKING FOR RIGHT NOW: Business of Fashion released their first-ever report on the best companies to work for in fashion. harpersbazaar.com 24 April 2017^